Toritaki

Watching the grillmaster work deftly over the coals from across the counter is one of the quiet pleasures of settling in at Toritaki. Situated in Itabashi Ward's Minami-Tokiwadai neighbourhood, this neighbourhood tavern serves a wide spectrum of skewered chicken, anchored by its long-standing specialty of slowly roasted chicken wings. The grill lineup includes patiently crisped chicken skin, rich liver, classic negima (chicken and scallion), and skewers threaded with whole garlic cloves. Guests can tailor their skewers with sweet-savory tare sauce or salt, and dishes like the cartilage-flecked chicken meatballs served alongside crisp raw green peppers offer plenty of texture to match a first drink.

While the skewers take their turn over the heat, a variety of small dishes keep the table lively. Tender motsu nikomi (braised offal stew), chilled sliced tomatoes, and chicken skin dressed in tangy ponzu provide a balanced start. The kitchen also turns out substantial tavern fare, from griddled tonpeiyaki packed with pork belly and rolled omelets oozing with spicy cod roe and cheese, to a nostalgic plate of ketchup-glazed spaghetti Napolitan.

Drinks cover the full spectrum of Tokyo izakaya culture, featuring Sapporo Black Label on draft, bottles of Akaboshi, Hoppy sets available with either white or black mixer, highballs, and rustic wine served over ice. The dining room picks up energy as evening settles in, accommodating solo diners stopping by for a quiet evening drink just as easily as groups sharing plates over a leisurely meal. With table reservations accepted and payments handled via credit card and PayPay, Toritaki works equally well for spontaneous weeknight dinners and planned gatherings.